Small batch fabric production in Wales

On a recent trip to Wales I came across a woollen mill close to where I was staying. Always keen to explore locally produced fabrics I had to take a look. I wasn’t disappointed.

The mill opened in 1859 in a small village called Trefiew, where they have been spinning locally sourced wool to make fabrics the patterns for which have been handed down for generations. It was amazing to see such history in what they are doing. More amazing still I recognised one of the patterns as that of a blanket given to me by my great Aunt who was born and raised in Wales. I was told that the if the blanket I had didn’t have a boarder then it predated 1930 which it certainly does.

Walking through the weaving rooms I came across the generator that powers the mill. Not normally something I’d be hugely interested in but I was amazed to find that the whole mill was run using a water powered generator supplied by lakes further up the valley. In terms of the carbon footprint each meter of fabric creates it must be tiny. Wool from within five miles of the mill, water power producing electricity powering the looms, local plants and herbs producing the dyes. This is how material should be produced.

The low carbon footprint did leave me thinking about the fashion industry as a whole. This fabric is great and would make a fantastic overshirt or jacket however, due to the small production runs the cost of each meter is very high so there is no margin. The answer of producing more to reduce the cost per meter is one that works in a consumer driven model but one that doesn’t work in an environmentally considered one. I guess we all need to consider what goes into the production of the clothes and textiles we buy. When all this is said and done though, £96 per meter of fabric doesn’t seem much at all when it makes a blanket that is been handed down three generations…something to think about when considering the average 2.2years someone has one garment before getting rid of it.

Share

Launching our KickStarter Campaign

This has always been on the roadmap as a way of launching new products and we feel timing is finally right. We’ve put a load of work into product and brand development and we’re ready to showoff what we want to bring into production.

Building on the outerwear we launched last year, we’re looking to expand the range and bring a more casual urban feel to the next jacket. To do this we have opted to use waxed cotton. This is for three key reasons.
ONE waxed cotton is weather ready. The waxed coating enables the fabric to resist water and wind making it perfect for people who look to more active means of travel whether walking or cycling.
TWO waxed cotton, unlike manmade petrochemical based fabrics such as polyester, doesn’t impact the environment in the same way. We have used sustainably sourced waxed cotton to lessen the environmental impact of each Jacket resulting in a garment that looks great without costing the earth. We’ll go into more detail on this in a moment.
THREE We love the way waxed cotton patinas over time meaning each garment ends up looking unique to the person who wears it.

Anyway back to the tricky subject of sustainable fabric. This is a tricky one because the various ways fabrics are made. Cotton is a natural fibre unlike polyester which is made by refining oil. Cotton does, however, borrow a lot of water. The Aral Sea has been all but obliterated since the 1960s by irrigation projects in Russia primarily for the growth of Cotton. Since then water consumption and the use of pesticides has been more of a consideration for responsible producers of cotton and in turn more of a consideration for responsible brands such as SAMVÆR. The downside of this though is the increase of cost to the consumer. We will do our bit if you support us and enable us to use fabrics that don’t cost the earth…

Share

Why we’ve changed our mind on Black Friday…

We posted on instagram that we will be offering some Black Friday deals this Friday along with thousands of other brands.  Since we did this we have had a change of heart and thought we’d take the time to explain why.

There are a number of reasons why we’ve changed our mind and it has certainly been influenced by some other the brands we look to and aspire to be like and their decision to turn their back on Black Friday.  One thing we would like to be very clear about we don’t price our garments and accessories simply to mark them down.  We make them with love, care and attention.  We use UK made fabrics, UK manufacture and we pay for that quality so we can pass it on to you.

We believe that the hard work of people like Hillary who made our range of jackets or Anne who sewed every backpack we sell should have they’re hard work valued at it’s full.  If we’re all honest we don’t need 10 jackets or 5 backpacks but something new every now and then is what we work hard for and that hard work, the treat at the end of it, should last.

To Quote Vivienne Westwood “Buy less, choose well, make it last”

If you would like to buy a backpack that is limited to a run of 16 pieces, or an overshirt that will serve you well over time, built to last then we’re hear to provide that.  If you want discounted products that are a bargain this Friday then the internet is a huge and varied place.  Don’t buy just because it’s a bargain, buy because you value the work and time that has gone into it.

Share

Design Market: Finders Keepers Copenhagen

Going big or going home?

As part of the launch of Samvaer reaching our target audience is one of the hardest challenges facing us.

As part of the launch of Samvaer reaching our target audience is one of the hardest challenges facing us. In order to test the market and find out what potential customers really think of our garments we have taken a leap of faith by attending Finders Keepers in Copenhagen. Finders Keepers has been created with the intention of enabling new brands to meet customers in a more affordable way by charging a reasonable amount for a stall at a two day market.
Writing this during a brief break on day one of the market a lot has been learned already. Sales are not an easy thing to come by but it is great seeing people try on the jacket and shirt and comment on it. Feedback has been very good even if people are a little reluctant to reach into their pockets.
Theoretically Denmark should be the perfect audience for Samvaer. Nine out of every 10 Danes own a bike and cycling accounts for 26% of all journeys less than 6km. Additionally 75% of bike traffic in Copenhagen continues in winter. These stats stack up when you’re trying to launch a clothing brand designed for the design conscious cyclist.
Lunch over it’s time to meet some more potential customers and see if we can convert some of the lovely smiles into sales…to be continued…
Share

The origins of ‘Togetherness’

The idea for Samvaer came from the simple frustration that the cycle clothing I cycled to work in was not what I wanted to be seen in the office or a meeting or a pub for that matter. I went to throw money at the problem but couldn’t really find anything that provided the technical qualities I wanted with a more versatile garment. I was looking for something the kept me dry if I got caught in a shower, was more relaxed in fit and worked off the bike (so not neon)

On a typical day in London there are 670,000 cycle journeys every day in London. With the average driving speed of just 7 miles per hour in London cycling is a far quicker option. Tubes are expensive and forever going up in cost, cycling is certainly cheaper if not quicker than public transport. It makes a lot of sense to get on your bike. So how to create a garment that offers everything I want?

Being on the bike in a city as a means of getting about makes a lot of sense. Being off the bike in cycle clothing really doesn’t. Working closely with a friend who is a garment technologist we started with fit and fabric. Originally working with an Italian cycle company who provided us with some excellent fabric we had a good starting point. Fit came next for which we worked on allowing movement whilst giving it a good silhouette. This took a number of iterations and a few samples. After about 6 months we felt we have a good jacket but not quite there.

We decided to revisit the fabric we were using as we felt something more natural would give a better drape as well as being more breathable. Having heard about a collaboration between Marton Mills and Cambridge Audio (who wanted a custom fabric for an outdoor speaker) it looked like they would be able to offer this perfect mix of both traditional and technology.

Fast forward 8 months and we’ve created a classic fit jacket and an overshirt. Offering technical qualities but hidden away so as to not be the main design features of each garment. We have also twinned this with NanoSphere technology. This is where micro particles are permanently fixed to the fabric making it water, oil and dirt resistant by reducing the surface area on which liquids can be absorbed. It’s clever stuff and doesn’t change the breathable quality of fabric or how it looks and feels. For this reason it’s as suitable off the bike as on it.

Share